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One of the most confusing areas for new models is fees, expenses, and start-up costs. There is a lot of hype and misinformation surrounding modeling fees and what a model should and shouldn’t pay when starting out. This misinformation is especially prevalent on modeling forums and other online resources. New role models may feel so bewildered that they give up and never pursue their dream. Don’t let this happen to you.

When you begin your journey to becoming a model, all you need are two simple things: shots and exposure. Acquiring these items doesn’t have to be expensive, and with a little know-how, it can even be inexpensive.

Basic Snapshots
The first step in your modeling journey should be to take some basic shots. These photos can be extremely basic, and they can be taken by a friend or family member. You should wear simple clothes and very little makeup in these photos.

Make yourself known to agents and model recruiters
Once you have your photos, you need to expose them to as many agents and recruiters as possible. This exposure will help you secure a contract with a modeling agency – the first major goal of any aspiring model. There are several strategies for approaching this step, and each has advantages and disadvantages.

You can print your photos and physically mail them to all the agencies, but that’s the slowest and most expensive way to go about this step. You can also email your photos to all agencies. Although email is a free alternative to postage, it’s not always as efficient – ​​an email is more likely to be intentionally or accidentally ignored than a physical package delivered to an office. Finally, you can post your photos on model search sites, if you know of agents or recruiters who are actively looking for models.

Once you have photos and a strategy to get your name out there, that’s about all you need! With enough effort and a bit of luck, these two things will get you started in the world of modeling.

When an agency wants you to sign a contract
While catching the eye of an agency is cause for celebration for any new model, it’s only the start of your career. Once an agency has expressed interest in representing you, you will likely be given a whole new set of tasks, many of which will be chargeable. You may be told that you need to hire a photographer, makeup artist or stylist. You may be asked to make prints of your photos, create composite cards, post your photos on the agency’s website, etc. Some agencies may even tell you that you need to take modeling classes at schools that teach this type of skill.

It’s time to take a breather and find the best path for you.

Many new models have heard that “if you have to pay anything, it’s a scam” or “if an agency likes you, they’ll pay for everything”. However, this is not always the case, and the issue of expenses is never as clear-cut as one would like to believe. You shouldn’t give up on yourself or an agency when the topic of fees comes up, but you should think carefully about what you’re being asked to do and what’s best for your career.

Here are a few things to keep in mind: 8

What is the reputation of the agency? Is she known for developing new models and getting them contracts? Does it have contacts with larger agencies in larger markets? What is their plan to market you?

If you need new photos, ask the agency for a list of photographers they would recommend. If she insists you use her in-house photographer, beware. This may be a sign that she earns more selling photoshoots than getting you bookings. An agency should not make revenue from your photo shoots.

Is the agency part of a modeling school? Modeling lessons can be beneficial for some models, but they shouldn’t be a requirement for an agency to hire you.

Are you in a large market like New York, Los Angeles, Milan or Paris? Or do you revolve around a smaller, local market? Most models don’t start at the top in the big agencies in New York or Paris. It is rather in the small agencies that they learn the trade, that they develop their look and that they constitute their portfolio. While a large New York agency can offer to advance your fees, agencies in smaller markets are less likely to have the resources to fund new models. However, if you have the opportunity to work with an agency in a smaller market, don’t pass it up. These agencies can be a valuable asset to your career.

Agencies can advance expenses, but never fund them
When an agency hires you, you will be considered an independent contractor and not an employee of the agency. Your services as a model are contracted by the agency. In effect, you are the sole proprietor of your own business. Therefore, all expenses incurred will be your responsibility. That said, sometimes an agency is willing to advance some of these expenses to get you started. Once you start booking sessions, the agency will deduct their due from your account.

Even when you’ve started working and landed a lot of contracts, you’ll face ongoing expenses such as new photo shoots, portfolio prints, mail, agency website fees, commissions agency fees, travel expenses, long distance telephone charges, etc. These expenses are not unique to new models. Even established models have similar expenses from time to time. However, these will (hopefully) be small expenses compared to the income you will earn. Also remember that all business expenses will be tax deductible.

Every model and every agency is different
When it comes to modeling start-up costs, it’s important to keep in mind that every model and every agency is different. If you asked 100 supermodels how they got started, you’d probably get 100 different stories. Some may have received benefits that you may not personally receive, but most probably do not. The majority of models have worked very hard to get where they are, and by following their work ethic, you too can get there.

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